The Difficulties of Choosing the Right Switch

A switch has a general sound profile recorded with a stock custom keyboard (if you are using Kinetic Labs). What they don't tell you is that a keyboard changes the switch's sound profile so much that the audio you hear online might not be the same when you put the switch into your own custom keyboard.

Switches are a commitment. You need to buy at least 70 switches per keyboard, depending on the build, and it's a hassle. Choosing the right switch is a burdensome decision; some keyboard creators just skip it altogether and go with the most popular switch, like the Gateron Oil Kings. For me, what I have learned is that thocky is not just a switch sound but a sound that is dependent on multiple variables. Through trial and error, I have found that the most important components of the switch are not just the housing but also the spring length and weight, the stem length, the travel distance, and the keyboard mounting style. Yes, I know online they say using case foam, heavy keycaps like PBT or even ceramic, and a POM plate is the best, but as someone who likes thocky but not mushy, I have had to work around the normal "thocky" methods (e.g., case foam) and turn to more unorthodox alternatives.

As a heavy keyboard user, I prefer a solid typing experience, and a POM plate was just too soft. I prefer an FR4 plate, but it creates a more poppy sound rather than a thocky one. Unfortunately, I couldn't get used to the POM plate's softness, so I had to try to compensate for the poppiness with the mounting style and switches. The hardest thing that I have come across is that switches might sound thocky online, but not in your keyboard. Once I place them on my custom board, they might sound high-pitched due to the FR4 plate or the case material (it could be multiple variables, but those are the most common). I have not tried custom switch building, but I have found that having a switch made out of POM plastic (both top and bottom housing), a double stage switch spring that is light weight (about 45g as the lightest), a high travel distance of 3.8mm - 4mm, and a long stem usually is the best specs for a thocky switch even for my FR4 plate. It gets me that thockyness without the mushyness. Understanding these components of a switch and your preferences can really help you pick a switch that gives you the desired sound profile without relying on a sample sound test. It also lets you dive into your preferences (e.g., I am more geared toward a heavier spring, so I usually go with a double-stage spring between 55g and 63g)

Apart from the switch, I have also found that the mounting style of your PCB affects the sound of the switches as well. The best mounting style for thocky lovers is a gasket- or hamberger- mount. I have only encountered the gasket mount, but I find that it dampens the pingyness of a more rigid plate. I also think a top mount is okay, too, especially with an FR4 plate. This mounting style prevents the plate from vibrating when you type and softens the sound quite a bit, with a tap mod on the PCB it is pretty thocky, but it is really dependent on the shape of your keyboard case. What I also found was that gasket socks are better than bowl gaskets. They are a little more balanced and, in my opinion, have lower vibrations.

So, overall, I will say this: switches can sound any way you want if you make a couple of changes. A switch might have a good sound profile online, but it might not be solely due to the switch's build; if you really have no clue, just test them out. Even though it's a hassle to go back and buy your switches, I think it's better to be happy with a switch after you test a couple rather than just go by audio files and pick based on your sound preference. I think it's better to focus on your typing experience rather than the sound profile, so once you figure out what you like (in a utilitarian way or not), you can adjust the switches to match your preferences and then swap parts (in the switch or the keyboard) to shape the sound profile.